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Furcifer Pardalis

Panther chameleon

This Chameleon with its beautifull colors oringated from the islands near the coasts of Madagascar. Their colors often depends on the island originated from (Mitiso, Be, Faly... ). Mine are from Nosy Faly (Nosy meaning island in the native tongue). In the wild they can often be found basking in tree's or searching for prey. They are only active during the day. I observe that even before the lights go out in their enclosure they already search a suitable branch to sleep on. In Madagascar they have about 12 hours light a day, try to mimic this in their enclosure. The Furcifer Pardalis, like most chameleons, has a fairly limited life expectancy. Males will live for about 5 - 7 years, females even shorter. It is a common misconception that chameleons change their color to blend in their surroundings, the color of their skin change according to their mood. When they are stressed they will often become more dark or even black. Sometimes they also change their color to absorb or reflect more heat depending on their needs at that given moment. Some specimens can get really tame and used to people others will always be afraid. Don't try to force them in being something they are not. Also I see a lot of people handeling their chameleons quit often, I wouldn't recommend this as chameleons are pretty fragile animals when it comes to health. 

 

The panther chameleon also is really territorial, do not put multiple animals in one enclosure (except when you are attempting to breed them).

 

Lighting and Heat.

My enclosures are supplied with UvB bulbs with a ballast, there are different opinions about this. Some will say these bulbs give to much UvB (where my logical concent would be that the real sun probably gives loads more), and use fluorecent bulbs. In the end I think it all depends on the way your enclosure is setup. Respect the distance from the lamp to the animal and give your animal the possibility to hide from direct UvB light. As for heat, the overall temprature in the enclosure is 23-26 °C and 30-32 °C underneath the hotspot. At night I keep a minimum of 23°C (I do  this with a ceramic heat emitter connected with a thermosensor controlled by a PLC).

 

Male Furcifer Pardalis Nosy Faly.

Food.

I feed my panther chameleons nearly every day with the occasional day off. Their main source of food is grashoppers (Locusta migratoria) and roaches (Blaptica Dubia). I bring variety in their diet by occasionaly offering them waxworms, mealworms and silkworms. A good variety in diet is essential for a healthy animal. Don't feed them pinky's or other rodents. Chameleons will only drink drops of water from leaves, so use a rain system or spray them enough or else they will dehydrate.

Enclosure.

Provide a lot of branches, vines, twiggs for the chameleon to climb in. They wander around during the day so make it interesting for them. An easy solution is to use branches from weeping willows, they have a lot of twiggs and offers a lot of possibilites. Next try to make the animal feel secure by adding leaves (preferably real ones) to hide. They are tree dwellers so they rarely dwell on the bottom. In my enclosure are only real plants, they provide good humidity and a lot of shelter. The scindapsus is a really sturdy plant that, if kept properly, will soon out grow your vivarium and fill it with lots of leaves and branches to climb in. Keep the humidty between 50-70%. You will be misting at least once (preferably twice) a day so you need a good ventilation so the air won't get to humid. 
 

Breeding.

Under construction.

 

Female Furcifer Pardalis Nosy Faly just caught a grashopper.

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